Glossary: Ingredients

A

Acetic Acid

əˈsiːtɪk ˈæsɪd
Acetic Acid is an antifungal and antimicrobial substance that when used topically can help to clear bacteria related to infections and conditions such as acne, rosacea, eczema etc. Commonly found within vinegars such as Apple Cider Vinegar, also found in fruits and sweat.

Acai

ä-sī-ˈē
Acai is a type of berry from the amazonian rainforests grown on trees over 80 ft tall. It is rich in antioxidant properties that help to neutralise free radical cells, to prevent their damaging effects to the proteins, skin cells and DNA of the skin. This helps the skin to maintain its natural barrier and defence system.

Acetone

ˈæsɪˌtəʊn
A solvent used primarily for removing nail varnish, and within nail varnish formulas etc. Usually manufactured although can occur naturally. It has a distinctive smell and strips the surface of oils and water.

Activated Charcoal

ˈæktɪveɪtɪd ˈʧɑːkəʊl
Activated charcoal is a form of carbon soot that has been treated to give it a sponge texture. This increases its surface area greatly and allows for its high level of absorption. Within cosmetics it is commonly used as an exfoliant, a purifier, and teeth whitener. It works like bluetack in the manner in which it absorbs particles at a molecular level to aid with cleansing, skincare, and stain lifting. It can also be used as a physical exfoliant to buff the skin.

Adenosine

əˈdɛn ə sin
Adenosine is predominantly derived from yeast, used for its anti aging, soothing, anti inflammatory and collagen boosting properties. It helps to firm the skin through collagen production and to minimise wrinkles. This combined with its anti inflammatory properties can aid in healing. There are also some reports that show its ability to aid hair growth and thickness.

Agar

ˈæg ər
Agar is derived from marine plants such as seaweed or algae (Red algae - Gelidium). As a marine algae derivative it has good moisture retention properties so is a good choice for dry skin. This complex carbohydrate is a biologically active ingredient that consists mainly of galactose residues. It's used in skincare for its jelly texture as this is an effective emollient in many moisturisers and other products as it helps to create a smoother product with the ability to alter thickness.

AHA / BHA (Alpha-Hydroxy Acid / Beta-Hydroxy Acid)

ˈælfə-hydroxy ˈæsɪd
AHA’s and BHA’s are types of hydroxy acids. AHA stands for Alpha-hydroxy Acid, and BHA stands for Beta-hydroxy acid.
They are chemical exfoliators, that peel away the dead skin cells on the upper skin surface.

Alanine

ˈæl əˌnin
A form of non essential (made internally) Amino Acid, that helps to balance skin's moisture levels and improve hydration.

Alcohol

æl kəˌhɔl
Within skincare there are both good and bad types of alcohols. There are simple ethanols and fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols are usually derived from plants, can be used to thicken a formula or enhance its penetration. There are many types of fatty alcohols such as cetyl (product thickener), stearyl (an emollient to trap moisture in skin), cetearyl alcohol (an emulsifier), and propylene glycol (a humectant to attract water into the skin) Simple alcohols damage the skin's natural barrier over time and cause a lack of natural defense. This causes dehydration, enlarged pores and can exacerbate acne symptoms. These are added to products as an emollient and to give the feeling of tightening to the skin which is short lived.

Algin

ˈæl dʒɪn
A naturally occurring polymer obtained from brown algae (phaeophyceae). As a class of ingredient it is any hydrophilic, colloidal substance found in or obtained from various kelps, as alginic acid or one of its soluble salts. Used as a thickener in cosmetics and skincare because gelling-polysaccharide is a water binding agent due to its quick water-absorbing abilities.

Alguronic Acid

ælgʌrɒnɪk ˈæsɪd
Alguronic acid is the tradename for a substance derived from microalgae. It is not a single polysaccharide, but a mix of algae extracts claimed to have anti-aging benefits for the skin as an active ingredient used within an anti aging product called Algenist. It was patented The substance intent is to act as a serum for hydration, brightening and firming of the skin.

Allantoin

əˈlæn toʊ ɪn
Extracted from the root of the comfrey plant or produced via the oxidation of uric acid, it is used within the skincare and cosmetic industry for its ability soothing effects to protect the skin. Used medicinally to heal ulcers

Aloe Vera (Aloe Barbadensis)

ˈæləʊ ˈviːrə
Derived from the plant Aloe Vera, a subsect of the succulent aloe plants. Its primary use within skin care is an emollient to sooth, protect and hydrate the skin. Medically it is used to treat burns and skin issues thanks to its anti inflammatory properties. Rich in minerals vitamins and amino acids.

Alpha Lipoic Acid

ˈælfə lipoic ˈæsɪd
Alpha-lipoic acid is a naturally occurring fatty acid that can be found in our bodies and many foods such as yeast, spinach, broccoli, potatoes, and organ meats such as liver or kidney. It is an antioxidant that attacks free radicals to help prevent aging, fine lines, diminish pores and brighten the skin.

Amino Acids

əˈmiːnəʊ ˈæsɪd
Amino acids are within the body that act as the building blocks for peptides and proteins. They are used throughout the body. There are 20 types of amino acids, divided into essential( Created internally) and non essential (required externally). They are vital for the skin's moisture balance and allow the skin's natural protection to work. They help with skin smoothness, hydration and are an antioxidant. They work by not only fighting free radicals but encouraging the skin to create its own protection against free radicals.

Arginine

ˈɑr dʒəˌnin
A form of non essential (made internally) Amino Acid, that plays a role in reparing visible skin damage

Asparagine

əˈspær əˌdʒin
A form of non essential (made internally) Amino Acid, that plays is required for collegen production. It is also used to condition the hair and skin.

Aspartic acid

əˈspɑr tɪk ˈæsɪd
A form of non essential (made internally) Amino Acid, that plays is required for collegen and elastin production. It is derived primarily from young sugar cane and sugar-beet molasses Also has properties for conditioning and hydration of skin and hair as its molecular structure can hold water.

B

Bentonite

ˈbɛntənaɪt
An absorbent swelling clay consisting mostly of montmorillonite. It absorbs dirt and oil, like sebum. The antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties may help your skin heal.

Benzoyl Peroxide

bɛnzoyl pəˈrɒksaɪd
It reduces the amount of acne-causing bacteria and by causing the skin to dry and peel. It is an exfoliating agent that increases the turnover of the skin and removes the mixture of sebum and dead skin cells from the pores.

Beta Carotene

ˈbiːtə ˈkærətiːn
A B vitamin derived from chlorophyll-containing plants, bacteria, and food. Used to protect against UVA-light induced damage. Can help to reduce levels of oxidative stress nd improve skins appearance

C

Calamine

kætlɑːmaɪn
Made from Zinc Oxide and Iron oxide, and bentonite clay. Mixed with purified water glycerine and sometime other ingredients, calamine lotion is used for skin irritations, bug bites, acne etc. Its soothing properties help to calm the skin and to help prevent damage and infection from scratching. Also helps at drying out spots and aiding healing.

Carnitine

kɑːnitaɪn
Part of the amino acid family, a quaternary ammonium compound allows moisture to enter the skin and to retain it. Helping the cells to hold onto moisture giving the skin a more hydrated feel and appearance. It also assists with the breakdown of fats such as sebum, giving it purifying and clrifying uses, reducing sheen on skin. 

Carnosine

kɑːnəʊsaɪn

A dipeptide molecule, made up of the amino acids beta-alanine and histidine. This protein building block is found in the body in muscle, heart, brain tissue etc. Offering immunomodulating, wound healing, antiglycating, and antineoplastic effects. It can accelerate the healing of surface skin wounds and burns.

Cysteine

ˈsɪs tiˌin
A form of non essential (made internally) Amino Acid, that is a powerful antioxidant, that has a pigment reducing effect to brighten the skin. It is a good hair conditioner as it forms a thin layer over the hair that is antistactic and protecting via increased hydration.

D

Decyl Glucoside

dicyl: glukəʊsaɪd
A mild non-ionic surfactant used in cosmetic formularies, including baby shampoo and in products for individuals with a sensitive skin. A gentle cleanser that is plant-derived, biodegradable, and gentle for all hair types. Often overlooked as an allergen for the above reasons, it was named the allergen of the year in 2017 as "the most common one in the class of alkyl glucosides to cause allergic contact dermatitis" by the American Contact Dermatitis society.

Differin Gel

dɪfˈɪərɪn ʤɛl
Differin Gel is a brand name for Adapalene, a retinoid that is used to treat acne. Lowering the number and severity of acne pimples and promote quick healing. It works by changing the cell growth rate and decreasing inflammation.

Dihydroxyacetone (DHA)

daɪ haɪ droxy ˈæsɪˌtəʊn
The active ingredient in fake tan. Derived from sugar or glycerine, it is a natural ingredient that does not penetrate deeply into the skin. It is a safer way to have the look of a tan without the UV damage. 

Dimethicone

dimɛθaɪkəʊn
​​​​​​​A synthetic polymer of silicon (a natural element of the Earth) and an emollient that works to improve the softness of skin by sealing the spaces between the superficial dead cells of the stratum corneum (the top layer of the epidermis). An occulusive ingredient used to seal in moisture, debate continues as to weather it blocks pores and causes acne.

E

Ellagic Acid

ɛləgic ˈæsɪd
An antioxidant that can decrease levels of inflammation to protect against disease. Reduces pigmentation through minimising a melanin causing enzyme, and helps to speed up healing through reduction of inflammation.

Epigallocatechin Gallate (EGCG)

Epigæləʊkætechin gælleɪt
A plant compound thought to help reduce inflammation, aid weight loss, and help prevent heart and brain disease. Found commonly in Green Tea and has benefits when injested

Erythulose

iːrithjuːluːz
A natural based tanning agent used in self tanners in place of or in conjunction with DHA. A Keto-sugar that reacts with primary and secondary amino acids. Offering a natural looking tan and even application

G

Glutamic Acid

gluˈtæm ɪk ˈæsɪd
A form of non essential (made internally) Amino Acid, that maintains the skins PH, moisturises and helps to balance hydration within the skin. It is added to products as an anti aging ingredient. It is a good hair conditioner as it forms a thin layer over the hair that is antistactic and protecting via increased hydration.

Glutamine

ˈglu təˌmin
A form of non essential (made internally) Amino Acid, that is responsible for the formation of fibroblasts, the cells that are base for skin epithelium. It increases collegan production and is an antioxidant.

Glycine

ˈglaɪ sin
A form of non essential (made internally) Amino Acid, that is the smallest amino acid which allows it to penetrate deeply into the skin. It is a building block for collegan and also forms part of the skins natural moistured barrier, keeping the skin protected and hydrated. It is used as an antiaging ingredient for its hydration and ability to prevent fine lines and wrinkles through repairing the skin and incerasing firmness. It also can neutralise other products to give the product a soothing effect.

H

Histidine

ˈhɪs tɪˌdin
A form of essential (Required Externally) Amino Acid, primarily a moisturiser, it is also a humectant that offers skin conditioning properties. It also offers anti static properties and is used within skincare and haircare.

Hyaluronic Acid

haɪlijɔːrɒnic ˈæsɪd
A humectant, to help with moisture loss. Naturally produced within our skin cells, as it depleats over time a topical serum can help to hydrate and smooth the skin. Suitable for all skin types, it is an antioxidant, and shields from free radicals, pollution etc. 1 gram can hold 6 litres of water, which is why it is so valuable in hydrating the skin.

I

Isoleucine

ˌaɪ səˈlu sin
A form of essential (Required Externally) Amino Acid, primarily a moisturiser, it is also a humectant that offers skin conditioning properties. It also offers skin barrier properties and is used within skincare and haircare.

L

Leucine

ˈlu sin
A form of essential (Required Externally) Amino Acid, primarily a moisturiser, it is also a humectant that offers skin conditioning properties. It also offers wound healing and anti static properties. It is used within skincare and haircare.

Lysine

ˈlaɪ sin
A form of essential (Required Externally) Amino Acid, primarily a moisturiser, it is also a humectant that offers skin conditioning properties. It also offers wound healing, collegen production and anti static properties. It is used within skincare and haircare. 

M

Methionine

mɛˈθaɪ əˌnin
A form of essential (Required Externally) Amino Acid, required for growth and tissue repair, improves skin tone and pliability of skin hair and nails. It also offers protection from pollutants and slows cell aging . It is used within skincare and haircare.

N

Niacinamide

naɪ ə sɪn ə mide
A compound of Vitamin B-3, used similarly to niacin - a different type of vitamin B-3. Also Known as Nicotinamide. A vegan product used topically on the skin, helps to build keratin, increase lipid barrier to help retain moisture, reduce inflammation, helps to regulate oil, helps with acne, and help with signs of sun damage such as hyperpigmentation, fine lines and oxative stress. .

P

Phenylalanine

ˌfɛn lˈæl əˌnin
A form of essential (Required Externally) Amino Acid, an antioxidant used to fight free radicals in the skin. It also has skin replenishing properties. It is used within skincare and haircare.

Proline

ˈproʊ lin
A form of non essential (made internally) Amino Acid, that is a building block of the skins protein production. It can improve skin elasticity, increase collagen production, and promote skin repair and regeneration.

R

Retinol

rɛt ɪn ol
Vitamin A1 alcohol, is added to skincare to boost collagen production, and plumps out the skin, improves visible signs of aging, such as fine lines, improves tone, and pigmentation issues. Retinols can cause dryness and flakyness, so must be applied at night and when in use, a hydrating moisturiser and sunscreen must be worn. Take care when in the sun if using a retinol due to sensitivity.

S

SD Alcohol

æl kəˌhɔl
SD Alcohol Stands for specially Denatured alcohol, a simple form of ethanol. It has been denatured to give a bitter flavour to prevent consumption. This is added to cosmetics as an antifoaming agent, astringent, antimicrobial agent, and a solvent.

Serine

ˈsɛr in
A form of non essential (made internally) Amino Acid, that is a moisture binding ingredient or the skin. This product improves hydration and this helps with the skins moisture balance.

T

Threonine

ˈθri əˌnin
A form of essential (Required Externally) Amino Acid, a key building block in collegen production. It also has skin hydrating properties. It is used within skincare and haircare.

Tryptophan

ˈtrɪp təˌfæn
A form of essential (Required Externally) Amino Acid, primarily a moisturiser, it is also a humectant that offers skin conditioning properties. It also offers anti static properties and is used within skincare and haircare. 

V

Valine

ˈvæl in
A form of essential (Required Externally) Amino Acid, a key building block in collegen production. It also has skin hydrating properties. It is used within skincare and haircare.